Signs and Symbols in Romanian Embroidery - Part 1
The Romanian traditional costume, emblematic symbol of Romanian culture, is more than just a piece of clothing. In addition to its practical function, the Romanian traditional costume referred to the social status of the wearer, provided indications about the region and locality from which they originated, their occupation, and marital status. The cut of the traditional costume, its accessories, colors, and decorative patterns were not chosen at random. All of these elements offered clear indications about the wearer.
The Romanian blouse, known as the "ie," the queen of the Romanian traditional costume, is itself a world full of meanings and symbols. The Romanian folk blouse "ie" was handmade in silence, almost in meditation, and the motifs used in Romanian embroidery were all symbols, almost magical formulas through which the wearer of the blouse told her story, wove her dreams, desires, or sought the help of divinity. Traditional Romanian embroidery is the link between the profane and the sacred, between this world and the world beyond death, between humans and God.
Romanian folk motifs are biomorphic (zoomorphic and phytomorphic, depending on whether the pattern is copied from the animal or plant world), physiomorphic (describing a natural or cosmic phenomenon), and geometric. In this article, we will present the meanings of the most well-known geometric symbols found on the Romanian blouse or in Romanian traditional art .
Zigzag (the broken line)
This is an extremely common traditional motif in Romanian needlework and has represented lightning from ancient times.
Zigzag, made with bronze silk and silver stars on this beautiful traditional Romanian blouse:
Romanian blouse with gold and silver embroidery
Zigzag, cross and rhombus on this fabulous old Romanian shirt from Oltenia:
Variations of the zigzag and rhombus on this traditional Romanian costume from Oltenia:
The Circle
A Romanian traditional motif as ancient as the zigzag (the broken line) is the circle or the circle with a cross in the middle, representing the sun. The circle, in combination with a star, represents the wheel or movement and is, therefore, an even more suitable geometric symbol to represent the sun.
The circle with a star inscribed in it is richly represented on this Romanian blouse, which bears the ancient name that has been passed down through generations, known as "roata" or "the wheel."
Romanian folk blouse with circle symbol
We find a circle inscribed within a rhombus on this traditional Romanian blouse, whose pattern has been passed down from generation to generation, and whose name has been lost over time. Most likely, it represents the sun in the sky because the rhombus represents the sky or the universe.
Romanian blouse with circle in rhombus
The octagon, with its resemblance to a circle and a star inscribed within it, provides a clear representation of the "wheel of the sky," particularly symbolizing the sun. This motif is also present on this ancient Oltenian blouse.
Romanian folk costume from Oltenia
The Cross
It has the meaning of life. Sometimes it represents the four cardinal points (the cross with four equal arms).
A wonderful representation of the cross with equal arms inscribed in a rhombus on this splendid Romanian traditional dress from Banat:
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A very rare traditional Romanian blouse with a fabulous cross embroidered on it:
Another Romanian folk blouse, the pattern of which is still reproduced on our shirts today, features this cross that tries to transform into a 4 leafs clover .
In this case, the blouse incorporates a cross motif that seems to evolve into the shape of a 4 leafs clover .
Romanian blouse with white hand embroidery
We find an unusual and beautiful cross on the sleeve of an old Transylvanian men's shirt:
Romanian traditional shirt from Transylvania
And last but not least, another representation of a cross with equal arms, on the chest of a traditional Romanian shirt from Bihor. The shirts from this area are fabulous because of the embroideries with particularly fine and well-represented geometric motifs.
Romanian peasant blouse from Transylvania , Bihor
The gamma cross ( swastika )
The swastika cross is considered a talisman, believed to have an influence on the destiny of the person who wears it. In ancient times, among the Celts, Germans, and Greeks, the swastika represented the Sun God, the source of life and joy, prosperity, fertility, and became a symbol of good luck. However, the swastika does not only represent the sun; it symbolizes the sun in its circular movement.
A variation of the swastika cross is the four-leaf clover, which carries the same significance as a good luck and a talisman with magical powers. The swastika cross is often represented in Transylvania; I have frequently found it on the shirts from the Padureni region. The clover is more commonly represented and can be found on traditional Romanian shirts from all regions of the country. For example, on this shirt from northern Moldova, we find the 4 leafs clover, a more modern version of the swastika.
Romanian folk dress from Moldova
The Rhombus
In antiquity, the rhombus represented the God of the Sky, the Sun God, and it is highly prevalent in Romanian embroidery. Even though its ancient meaning has faded, the frequency with which it is represented in Romanian embroidery is due to the fact that it symbolizes a force of nature, most likely the sky or the universe, as well as its ease of translation into art.
A Romanian shirt, handmade by our company, featuring an old pattern passed down through generations and representing the rhombus, is shown below:
Romanian folk blouse with golden embroidery
Rhombus and stars on these two Romanian folk blouses , splendid representations of Romanian hand embroidery.
Romanian folk blouse with red hand embroidery
Romanian folk blouse with gold hand embroidery
